Naxos, Greece: Beyond the Beaten Path
View of Chora from the Portara
There are so many places in the world we still want to see, but for some reason, we keep coming back to Naxos.
I've been to Naxos three times now, and every trip has given us another reason to fall in love with this island. Every time we leave, we start talking about when we'll come back.
We've all heard it: "Get off the beaten path to truly appreciate a place."
Well... I completely agree.
Sure, it's amazing to visit the iconic landmarks—they're popular for good reason. But there's something really special about wandering through quiet villages, taking roads just to see where they lead, and finding little family-run restaurants where no one is in a hurry. That's exactly how we love to travel, and it's one of the biggest reasons we keep coming back to Naxos.
Our first trip started with the usual highlights—exploring Chora, marveling at the Portara, and wandering through its charming streets. But the real magic started when we rented a little car (surprisingly affordable!) and decided to see where the road would take us.
Discovering Apollonas
If you're driving to Apollonas, make sure you stop at the Ancient Quarry along the way. Seeing the unfinished Kouros—a giant marble statue that's been sitting there for over 2,500 years—was one of those unexpected things we weren't planning on loving, but we did.
Once we got to Apollonas, we grabbed lunch by the water, watched the fishing boats come and go, and just enjoyed slowing down for a while. It's a small village, but that's exactly what makes it so special.
Wandering Through Halki
About a 20–25 minute drive (10 miles / 16 km) from Chora, Halki is a great place to spend a few hours exploring. We had lunch under a canopy of bougainvillea and grapevines in the town square, then wandered through the little streets to see what we'd find.
From the town center, we followed a path for about 10 minutes through olive groves to the Byzantine Church of St. George. The church was closed when we visited, but the walk itself was beautiful and definitely worth it. On the way back, we even made a few goat friends.
The Food That Keeps Us Coming Back
Let's talk about the food.
One of our favorite things about Naxos is the food. Honestly, I don't think we've ever had a bad meal there. Whether it's a little taverna in a mountain village or a restaurant by the water, everything just seems fresh, simple, and full of flavor. And no one rushes you. Dinner isn't just about eating—it's about slowing down, talking, laughing, and enjoying where you are.
One of my favorite little things is ordering the house wine. Instead of bringing a bottle, many tavernas serve it in a small copper pitcher called a hima, and you pour it into your glass throughout the meal. It's such a simple tradition, but I love it. Sitting outside on a warm evening with good food, good wine, and nowhere else to be...that's Greece to me.
These are the places we always make time for when we're in Naxos
Here are a few of our favorite places.
Our Favorite Breakfast in Naxos
We almost always started our day at Melimilon before heading out to explore the island. It's a small family-owned café near Saint George Beach in Chora, and after our first breakfast there, it became part of our routine.
The outdoor patio is covered with grapevines and flowers, and it's just one of those places where you end up lingering over breakfast. The people are incredibly kind, and you never feel rushed.
Everything we had was fresh and delicious, but if you go, don't miss the mizithra pancakes with fresh fruit, yogurt, and honey. And whatever you do, order the warm milk with honey. I know it sounds a little odd, but trust me—it was so good.
Take a few minutes to browse the little pantry inside before you leave. They make their own homemade jams, it's hard to leave without taking something home.
Melimilon became part of our morning routine in Naxos, and it's one of the first places on our list every time we go back.
If You Go...
Order: The mizithra pancakes with fresh fruit, yogurt, and honey. They're the reason we keep coming back.
Try: The warm milk with honey. It sounds unusual, but trust us—it's delicious.
Sit Outside: The flower-filled patio is part of the experience. It's the kind of place where breakfast turns into an hour without you even noticing.
Before You Leave: Stop inside and browse their homemade jams, marmalades, and other local products. We never leave empty-handed.
Take Your Time: Don't rush. This is the perfect place to start a slow morning before exploring Naxos.
Visit Melimilon: Melimilon
To Elliniko: More Than a Restaurant
Every time we're in Naxos, there's one dinner we never skip.
Some restaurants become traditions. To Elliniko has become ours.
On our very first visit, we met Sylvia, one of the owners, and what started as dinner turned into a friendship. Every time we come back, she welcomes us with the biggest hug, and makes us feel like family.
The food is everything we love about Greece—fresh seafood, local vegetables, incredible cheeses, and house wine served in beautiful copper jugs. Sylvia once told us her mom still comes in early every morning to make the family's sauces using recipes that have been passed down for generations. Knowing that somehow makes every meal taste even better.
And whatever you do, save room for the orange cake. It's served warm with vanilla ice cream, and after all these years, we still order it every single visit. (Pro tip: order it when you place your meal—they often sell out!)
The first time it was just the two of us.
Then I came back with my daughter.
The third time, she came back with her husband, and my son and his wife joined us too.
We've also sent friends and family there over the years, and every one of them has come back saying how much they loved it.
Some restaurants have great food.
Some have great service.
Every once in a while, you find one that feels like home.
For us, that's To Elliniko.
If You Go...
Order: The lamb kleftiko, moussaka, fresh grilled fish, or whatever Sylvia recommends that day. Honestly, you can't go wrong.
Drink: The house wine served in the beautiful copper jugs.
Don't Miss: The warm orange cake with vanilla ice cream. Order it when you place your meal—they often sell out.
Take Your Time: Dinner here isn't meant to be rushed. Order another glass of wine and enjoy the evening.
Say Hello: Sylvia is usually the one greeting you at the door and showing you to your table. Tell her Cyn and Jerry sent you!
Visit: To Elliniko
Flamingo: Rooftop Views, Live Music & Greek Spirit
Flamingo is definitely a little touristy...but honestly, who cares? 😂 It's a rooftop restaurant in Chora overlooking the harbor, and it's just a really fun night out.
The food? It's fine. We're not going to tell you to come here for the food. 😂 Come for the live Greek music, the dancing and the whole atmosphere.
Once the music gets going, people start clapping and singing, everyone ends up dancing between the tables, and yes — plates get broken.
The first time we went, we had no idea what we were walking into, and by the end of the night we were dancing and having the best time.
So yes, it's touristy. No, it's not where we'd send you for the best meal in Naxos. But would we go back? Absolutely.
Visit: Flamingo Naxos
Hiking Mt. Zas: Standing on Top of the Cyclades
If you like hiking, don't skip Mt. Zas. This ended up being one of our favorite hikes in Greece.
At just over 3,200 feet, it's the highest mountain in the Cyclades. According to Greek mythology, Zeus spent part of his childhood here, which makes the hike even more fun.
We took the longer trail that starts at Aria Spring, near the village of Filoti, about 30 minutes from Chora. It starts off easy enough, but don't let that fool you...before long, you're climbing over rocks and making your way up the mountain.
About 25 minutes in, you'll come to Zeus' Cave. Of course we had to stop and explore. We only had the flashlights on our phones, which worked...but a headlamp definitely would've been better.
After the cave, the trail gets steeper, the views get better, and all you hear are goat bells echoing through the mountains. It was one of those hikes where you keep stopping...not because you're tired, but because you can't stop turning around to look at the views.
By the time we reached the summit, the wind was absolutely crazy. We were literally leaning into it just to stay on our feet. I think this picture says it all. 😂
The views from the top made every step worth it. You can see all across Naxos and the surrounding islands. We hung out for a while, took way too many pictures, and honestly didn't want to leave.
The hike down was definitely tougher on the knees than the climb up...but we'd do it again tomorrow.
At a Glance
Route: We started from Aria Spring near Filoti.
Time: About 4½ hours round trip, including time to explore Zeus' Cave and enjoy the summit.
Difficulty: Moderate. The trail gets steeper and rockier after the cave.
Why We Chose This Route: There are two main ways to hike Mt. Zas. We chose the Aria Spring route because it takes you past Zeus' Cave. It's a little more challenging than the other route, but we thought it was absolutely worth it.
A Few Tips
Start Early: It gets much hotter once you're out of the shaded lower section of the trail.
Bring Water: There aren't any places to buy drinks once you start hiking.
Explore the Cave: We only had the flashlights on our phones, but a headlamp would've made it much easier.
Wear What You're Comfortable In: I actually hiked it in my Teva sandals! Jerry wore hiking shoes. The trail gets rocky after the cave, so wear whatever you're comfortable hiking in.
Expect Wind: If it's a windy day, the summit can be incredibly windy. We were literally leaning into it just to stay on our feet.
Take Your Time: Stop often. Some of the best views are on the way up, not just at the summit.
Trailhead: Aria Spring, near Filoti, about a 30-minute drive from Chora.
One Day, Three ATVs, Countless Stops
On one of our trips to Naxos, we rented three ATVs—one for each couple—and kept them for a few days.
We were staying in a beautiful house right on Plaka Beach, where breakfast was delivered to our deck every morning. Fresh bread, fruit, coffee...it was a pretty great way to start the day. Of course, we couldn't resist sneaking away to Melimilon a couple of mornings too.
Then we'd hop on the ATVs and head out.
One day we explored the northwest coast, stopping whenever something caught our eye. We pulled over at quiet beaches like Amitis and Taxiarchis, took way too many pictures, and kept following the road just to see where it would lead.
Eventually we found Abrami Beach and decided to stop for lunch at Taverna O Efthimis. We hadn't planned on it—it just looked too inviting. Fresh seafood, cold beers, and a table overlooking the water... we could've stayed there all afternoon.
Those are the days I remember most. No schedule, no rushing...just exploring the island one stop at a time.
Before You Hit The Road
Rent the ATVs for More Than One Day: We had ours for a few days, and I'm so glad we did. It gave us the freedom to explore without feeling rushed.
Don't Skip the Northwest Coast: Some of our favorite stops were Amitis Beach, Taxiarchis Beach, and Abrami Beach. They're quieter than many of the beaches on the southwest side of the island.
Stop When Something Looks Interesting: Some of the best places we found weren't on our itinerary—we just pulled over.
Have Lunch at Taverna O Efthimis: If you make it to Abrami Beach, don't skip lunch. Grab a table overlooking the water, order whatever fresh fish they have that day, and take your time.
Bring Your Swimsuit: You never know when you'll find a beach that's too pretty not to jump in.
Take the Back Roads: They're slower, but that's where you'll find little villages, hidden beaches, and the unexpected stops that end up being the best part of the day.
Sailing Around Paros
One of our favorite days in Greece wasn't actually on Naxos...it was out on the water.
We booked a full-day sailing trip with Xanemo Sailing through GetYourGuide, and it ended up being one of those days where everything just worked out.
We sailed around Paros, stopping in little coves with water so clear it almost didn't look real. Every time the boat anchored, we were all back in the water. It was one of those days where nobody was checking the time or worrying about what was next.
The crew was awesome. They grilled lunch right on the boat, served Greek salad, tzatziki, pita, grilled meat, and plenty of beer and wine. Somehow, our entire boat managed to drink them out of both.
Most of the day was spent swimming, drying off in the sun, eating, laughing, and then jumping back in the water again. Pretty much the perfect way to spend a day in Greece.
If you have an extra day on Naxos, get out on a boat. It's a completely different way to experience the Cyclades
If You Go...
We booked with Xanemo Sailing through GetYourGuideand would happily book with them again.
Lunch, beer, wine, and snorkeling gear were all included, so we really didn't need to bring much besides our beach stuff.
Bring a towel, sunscreen, and a waterproof phone pouch. You'll be in and out of the water all day.
Jump in at every swim stop. Every cove was a little different, and the water was incredible.
Book ahead if you're visiting in the summer. These trips can fill up.
Until Next Time, Naxos
Three trips to Naxos and we're still not done with it.
There are still places we haven't seen, food we haven't eaten, and I'm sure plenty of little roads we haven't gotten lost on yet.
Somehow, every time we leave, we end up talking about when we're coming back.
I think Naxos is just one of our places now.
And I'm pretty sure there will be a fourth trip.

